Yes although fitting the valve should reduce the need for corrosion inhibitors as all of your radiators will be free of air. To allow inhibitos to be used, ensure at least one radiator has a manual vent plug fitted at the opposite end to an autovent. This will allow the inhibitor to be injected.

Yes provided the temperature of the piping allows the calve to operate at 35ºC (or 47ºC for the H50).

Definately, in fact you will save significant installation time. There is no requirement to visit each radiator as the valves close automatically once the radiator is full of water, the usual visit shortly after installation to bleed the radiators will no longer be required.

Running the radiators continually cool may not trigger the autovent operating temperature and may lead to a gradual build up of air in the radiators. To test, when the radiator is cold use a ball-point pen to gently press and release the pen in the middle of the white safety cap. This will override the system and cause the vent to operate if air is present. We would recommend that the temperature setting be higher to operate the autovent efficiently.

We would not recommend their use as they can sometimes jam the valves.

Yes, on newly installed closed systems, you may experience a slight pressure drops over the first couple of weeks. This happens as the dissolved air separates from the fresh water. Any further pressure drop would be caused from loss of system water i.e. leaks. Some installers prime such a system 10% more than its operating pressure to compensate for this initial pressure drop.

Yes, we would recommend the HV30C or Micro as they have a semi-one way valve fitted already as standard and will work on negative pressure systems.

The type of automatic radiator valve you require depends on the size of your radiator tappings. With a 1/2" BSP thread, the threaded hole in the tapping at the top of the radiator is approx. 20mm diameter (big enough to get your index findger inside). The plug screwed into the tapping will either be a chrome hexagonal valve, or a plug with a square cavity in it.

If after 3 - 5 years the radiator starts becoming cold it may mean the cartridge needs replacing. However it is worth venting manually first.

You can email info@wsimarketingexperts.co.uk or call us on 01279 647003.

Becuase the classic H50 autovent operates on temperature fluctuation, they vent when the radiator starts to heat up. For those minority systems where they are operated continuously at the same temperature these may not vent until the water level drops by about 1/3rd. Ensure that the Thermostat Radiator Valves are turned up to at least level 2.5 to ensure the H50 will operate efficiently.

The first time radiators are fitted with this type of valve, the air hisses out until water hits the hygroscopic washers inside. At this point they will seal and you will often see a small bubble of water. If more gas/air builds up in the radiator it will not escape until these washers are dry, so please give your valves a little time to dry out completely before contacting us.

This is a matter of personal choice. The HV30C is more compact, quieter and cheaper than the H50, but some people prefer to be able to hear the valve working. With the H50 you can hear a hiss as the gas escapes and then clicks shut. So it really does depend on which you prefer.

We are available via telephone between 8am and 5pm Monday - Friday. We would recommend you email us however, and we will answer your query within 24 hours, 7 days a week. info@wsimarketingexperts.co.uk tel. 01279 647003

The HV30C is the replacement valve for the H50, it is smaller, cheaper and eradicates noise. Some people prefer the H50 version as you can hear it working, as the air is released you would get a hissing sound and then a click as the valve closes. It is really down to personal choice.